One of the most anticipated parts of the trip, at least for me, because my colleague James has been banging on for months about it's, ah, 'unique' approach to telling the history of the Pacific War.
The Yushukan is a museum of warfare in modern imperial Japan which is part of the private Yasukuni Shrine to Japan's war dead i.e. it's all a bit like the Imperial War Museum crossed with the Cenotaph or Westminster Abbey, but not actually funded by public money.
A war museum as part of a religious site is weird enough, but doubly so given the controversy surrounding Yasukuni and the Yushukan - for a flavour see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yasukuni We saw numerous 'Rightist' vans with Japanese flags and loudspeakers converging on the shrine...
The entrance hall held a 'Zero' aircraft and an railway locomotive from the Thai-Burma Railway, known to the Allied POWs who helped to build it as the Death Railway. The provenance of the engine was given, but not the history of the line where it was used.
The panel did tell us that it been preserved as a symbol of Japanese wartime engineering by donations from veterans of the Japanese army who had worked on the railway. In other words, some of the people responsible for the deaths of, on average, 1 in 4 of all Allied POWs in Japanese captivity. In German and Italian camps, the ratio was 1 in 20. The link between the preservers of the train, and the men who actually built the railway was not there at all.
Some of the early sections of the museum were clearly playing out the past issues of imperial versus shogun control around the time of the Meiji restoration, although the path of events was hard to follow.
It seems that the Yasukuni Shrine was initiated in the later 19th century following the civil warfare which restored the Emperor's preeminence, as a sort of 'truth and reconciliation' centre, for all (?) Japanese war dead to be honoured together to help overcome past differences. This inclusive (to a degree) practice has, infamously, led to the commemoration of convicted war criminals from the Second World War.
There are so many examples of twisted language or obliteration of key issues (whether the audience is Japanese or international) that it is hard to cover them all. However, I'll give a couple:
Nanking is barely mentioned, and atrocities conducted by Japanese troops there are not spoken of at all. The panel simply says the capital of northern China was 'attacked to end hostilities' and that Japanese troops had orders to maintain discipline. Six weeks of slaughter and defilement are left out.
The start of the 'Pacific War' is given as 8 December 1941. Which, I believe, is technically when Japan declared war on the US and Britain. However, the surprise attack on Pearl Harbour took place on 7 December 1941. This isn't mentioned.
The 'trigger' for the Second World War was apparently the US embargo on Japan's oil imports. Having westernised and industrialised, Japan needed these supplies to function, so by withdrawing them the US gave Japan no choice but to seek other sources of supply in East Asia.
Japan signed the Tripartite pact merely to strengthen its negotiating position with the US as regards trade. The fact that this was with two other aggressive nations - Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy - which might have not looked too friendly to the US and Britain, is omitted.
I'm obviously laying on the sarcasm as heavily as possible with these examples, but it's genuinely what you find at the Yushukan. Incredible.
To try and offer a note of balance, the section describing the defeat of Japan from the Battle of Midway onwards is at least honest in terms of military matters, and if it gives examples of Japanese heroism in retreat, then I daresay no other nation would do different in the same position. But anywhere the Japanese war conduct could be puffed up, padded out, or slimmed down to present as positive an image as possible, even to my limited knowledge, it was.
I read an article in an English language magazine about Yasukuni today. It was by a Catholic priest here in Japan, who discussed its strange place in Japanese society, as much reviled by Leftist Japanese as it is lauded by the Right, which leads to confrontation each year at the anniversary of the end of the war (and this is worth remembering - Yasukuni does not represent the feeling of every Japanese person). Ultimately, the priest felt that the shrine would diminish as memories and lives faded, and in 10 or 15 years from now, it would be left as a tourist curiosity, and not a flashpoint for Japanese society to convulse around once a year. I hope so.
The day ended with Boswells, in a sense, going back to the beginning. On their prep weekend back in London they met Sgt. William Rose, a POW who had served his time in Singapore and Japan. Today we visited the Yokohama Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery, the only one of its kind in Japan, and where comrades of Mr Rose were buried.
It was a beautiful, tranquil place away from the bustle of Japan's two largest cities, surrounded by lush trees and maintained by a friendly custodian. A short time to reflect and study the personal messages that the CWGC allows on individual gravestones, and then a short service led by the students to say thank you.
That's it from this blog from Japan. Hope you've enjoyed it, sorry it's been patchy at times, but lengthy always! I have far too little time to pack and sleep before we head home tomorrow, so I've got to go. It's been a tiring but rewarding trip with an excellent, entertaining and intelligent group, and some fantastic teachers and colleagues.
Tips of the hat in particular to Ms Lucy Neale, Queen of Radiowaves in Japan, who with immense patience and persistence has marshalled the group into producing the terrific videos you can enjoy at www.radiowaves.co.uk/n/tpyf/stories
A big thank you to our outstanding guide Chieko - she was unstoppable!
And finally, Mr Dan Phillips, leader of the trip and frankly a force of nature. It's been a privilege watching a professional at work (even if it makes the rest of us feel a bit inadequate!).
Right, it's clearly far too late as I'm being much too nice to everyone. Best get in practice for being grumpy for when I get up... Sayonara.